Saturday, September 13, 2014

Just thought I'd run through some of the things I've made over the last few months
1) The cavalry shirt
This was made from a folkwear pattern for Frontier Shirts which means it is based on a 19th century design. I think Folkwear are pretty authentic in the designs they sell.
I made it from a brushed cotton in a pattern they called Aztec. I noticed that it seemed to be fading very rapidly and wasn't sure how to counter that. I'm hoping it can be stopped since I really like d the colour.
Other than that I think I failed to get the pattern for shirt and bib to line up too well so need to keep that in mind if I make another one.






This had some design features I found pretty difficult at the time like a curved pointed middle of the yoke at the back which I'm not sure shows anyway. With a bit more practise that should prove to be a bit easier to do but had me having to attempt it several times before i got it anywhere near right.
Then summer hit so I have hardly worn the thing so far.  Think I will be over the next few months though.

2) The striped jeans
These were inspired by the style of striped jeans that Levis and others were making in the late 60s and early 70s. They were made from a striped drill that has 2 alternating groups of coloured stripes. The main one that is visible here which is the group with a red/pink wide stripe on the outside and the same group of colours in a slightly different order with orange on the outside of the group.  The prevalent colour grouping is dictated by the way they are cut. I'm not sure to what extent the way they are cut is dictated to in terms of the way that the groupings lie on the uncut fabric. Anyway I think they look pretty good even if I do say so myself




I had a couple of problems in making these, mainly that the sewing machine I started them on broke down when I went to sew the bib on the cavalry shirt on the morning after I started them. That left them not being worked on for about a month at the start of the summer. Thankfully Vic came through with a sewing machine she no longer used and I got them done and wore them quite a bit over the summer.
 I've been worried that colours have appeared to be fading really fast, I noticed great patches of white appearing behind what was supposed to be a solid colour line which is obviously a great shame since the delight of  these things is the vibrancy. I've tried soaking them in distilled vinegar which was supposed to be a way of getting coloured dyes to stabilise. I'm not sure to what extent it's worked since I've spent more time in more recently made jeans since.
 I've also recently undone the belt loops which were too restrictive as they were which you can see in the photo on the right. I think Tina had told me that belt loops get sewn into the waistband as in captured under the seam. This proved to be really difficult to get belts in and out of. So on later pairs of jeans I've sewn the bottom of the belt loop has been attached to the top of the trouser leg.

3) The Dickensian jacket -Burda 2767
This was the first jacket I made with the new sewing machine. It is based on a pattern from a company called Burda, though i made some alterations to make it something I could wear practically.  These included changing where the waist pockets are located and adding pockets to the breast both outside on the left and inside.
The fabric used derived from 2 sets of curtains. I also used the lining that came with the main curtain to line it.  This was also the first garment that I seam finished to any extent.  It is my variation of a flat fell .
The jacket does still need to be hemmed but it finally got the collar topstitched and buttons put on the front over the last couple of weeks.
I was told that the jacket did come up very tight, I've been wearing it open all the time that I've been wearing it. Not sure if i can comfortably close it over the waistcoat I normally wear which tends to have things in the pockets. May need to expand the size if I make another one. But it's not exactly weather proof so may not be worn with too much more under it. Might not be worn in much worse or colder weather in other words.


4) The Cerise cords
I bought some material which arrived after some delay and when it was opened it was some of tghe softest stuff I'd ever felt. Kept wanting to pick it up and fondle it again.. Lovely stuff.
I think it was designed more for curtains and upholstery than for garments but it does feel awesome as a pair of jeans



These were again cut from the old dismantled pair of cords which I've now used about 7 times over the summer. They are really comfortable though the waist may still be cut too loose. I think I've had them slide off when they weren't worn with a belt.  Which indicates I have a lot to learn about fitting properly.
I wasn't sure how much dismantling and reconstructing the fabric could handle so I've left thenm as they were initially constructed. I think the central picture here which was in daylight is truer to the correct colour than the 2 shots bookending .
Anyway do love these things. I was interested in a colour range that included the darker shades of things like purple, pink, orange also the more chocolatey of browns . I am currently working on a pair of aubergine twill jeans which i had meant to make much earlier in the summer.

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